Iceland August 2020

04/08/2020

09.45 arr Reykjavik- drove north along Borgarfjörður to Varmaland campground

05/082020

Krauma Hot Springs (“”largest in Europe””) – commercial outfit

Borgagnes for the Settlement Centre. Two very good exhibitions there on the history of the Icelandic Settlement and the (linked) Sagas. A good grounding to start an Icelandic trip. Museum also serves typical Iceland cuisine such as Lamb stew and fish and mash.

Walked into Raudfeldar- Canyon just off the main road.

First sighting of wonderful Icelandic flora

Coastal walk from Hellnar towards Arnarstapi to view rock arches, sea stacks, and basalt columns, o/n at Grundarfjordur Camping Site”

06/08/20

Went to the Shark Museum in Helgafellssveit where Greenland Shark is processed, dried and then sold at a premium to restaurants in Reykjavik.

Walked up Helgafell with very friendly farm dog.

Visited Stykkishólmur famous modern church. Departed Stykkisholmur (ferry port on N Sneafellsnes peninsula) for Bryanslaekur.

Drove to spectacular 444 metre-high cliff of Látrabjarg Bird Cliffs, the westernmost point of Europe. Got a good look at some of Iceland’s many species of nesting seabirds, such as puffins.

Light house at the most western point of Europe

o/n at Breidavik beach camping ground (next inlet north of Látrabjarg)

Great campground by the sea, with opportunity to get a beer in Hotelbar – all very relaxed!

07/08/2020

We wallowed in outdoor hotsprings at Vesturbygoo

Dynjandi waterfall

Our beautiful campervan after driving for 2 days on unsealed roads in rain

Skrúður botanical garden.

Ísafjörður, “Capital of the West Fjords” is a delightful small town with a little harbour, airport, nice shop with Icelandic knitted sweaters and a good cafe.

o/n Ísafjörður camp ground which boasts its own waterfall and stream

08/08/20

Osvör Bolungarvík fishing hut museum near Ísafjörður unfortunately opening times different as advertised.

Long drive to Holmavik on unsealed road.

Hólmavík Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft – definitely worth seeing. Sorcery and witchcraft big in isolated places in the Arctic

o/n Holmavik” campground with supermarket, petrol station where you can clean the van! lovely pool and hot tubs next door.

09/08/2020

Drove to Akureyri stopped at Blonduossbaer for lunch, as it has a nice nature reserve for after lunch walk.

o/n Systragil campground (through tunnel north of Akureyri) with a little stream flowing next to us and a wonderful after dinner walk with great views.

10/08/20

visited Akureyri (Iceland’s second “city”), with one of the world’s northernmost botanical gardens.

Visited Icelandic Folk and Outsider Art museum a few kms north of Akureyri.

Visit Goðafoss (“waterfall of the gods”) en route to Lake Myvatn.

o/n Bjarg campground (midges++++) Myvtan camping

11/08/20
Walked to Grjotagja fissure

Storagya cavern,

Hverfjall crater,

the Dimmuborgir lava formations

Difficult path down from volcanic crater

Walked to Myvtan hot springs but hadn’t booked – so walked back to camping ground feeling a bit tired after 12.5 miles!
o/n Bjarg campground (midges++++)

12/08/2020

Went with Myvatn Tours on day trip to Askja caldera due south of Myvatn in the Highlands

Mechanical pump for toilets in camping ground

saw Herdubreid (Iceland’s favourite mountain), lava fields, and swum in warm, blue volcanic lake fed
by hot springs.

Highly recommended.
If you have your own 4WD, you can drive in, camp, walk and climb

Having booked we were able to relax in the Myvtan natural hot springs at the end of the day!

o/n Bjarg campground

13/082020

Drove to Borgarfjordur Eystri (Bakkergerdi) East coast of Iceland- a magical place.

Campground backs onto Alfaborg (Elf Rock) where Iceland’s Queen of the Elves reputedly lives.
Great pub. We bought fresh sea bass from fish factory there.
Lindarbakki – “the village’s hairiest and most photogenic house”) amazing sunset,
o/n campground

14/08/2020

We went for a long walk up Hvolsmaelir (the beginning of Walk 17 in “Trails of the Deserted Inlets”)
see the Footsteps of Elves itinerary for much more hiking detail:
https://www.discover-the-world.com/holidays/in-the-footsteps-of-elves/
“Lonely Planet: Iceland”: p339 for map advice

o/n campground

15/08/2020

Visited Seydisfjordur, an impossibly pretty little town, down a deep inlet
You can’t miss its Blue Church, with rainbow road leading to it.

Wonderful bird’s egg sculptures at harbour in Djupivogur.

Long beautiful drive including a detour as we were not allowed to go via Öxi pass with our Campervan so went via coastal road to South Iceland. Stayed in Höfn. Specialty of the town, Höfn, is langoustine tails. We booked to eat at Humahofnin (“Gastronomy Langoustine”). The unbookable Pakkhus was heaving, with people peeling off its queue to
try to get a table at our restaurant. Delicious meal and our 1st dinner out!
o/n Höfn campground.

Next morning 1st sighting of south Iceland‘s
vast Vatnajokull glacier from the campground

16/08/20

Visited Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon with its blue icebergs

then walked from Skaftafell to the famous waterfall Svartifoss (“the dark falls, so named because
of the black hexagonal basalt columns which surround it”).
“A hiker’s dream” says Lonely Planet Iceland (p 188)